San Diego Lock & Safe™ :: Ask the Locksmith Blog! (Notes from the Trenches)

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

"Replacing 'Smart Keys' Can Be Expensive" - Yes, but...

My response to yet another misinformative and incomplete article regarding transponder technology, and an urban legend or two... :)

Hi (name of anchor removed because it wasn't his fault per se)...

I own a locksmith business in San Diego. I track locksmith articles around the country for our blog, and to help combat some of the misinformation that exists "out there" about locksmiths and what they do. :)

Thought I'd drop you a line to let you know about some concerns with your article: "Replacing 'Smart Keys' Can Be Expensive". Customers may be unduly frightened by a few misconceptions, and unduly gain some false hope by other points in the article, and I thought I'd clarify a few of those for you on the consumers behalf...

"...The cost of getting a new smart key can be $600 or more..."

I suppose it could somewhere, if the locksmith was highly unethical, but the average cost to create, code, & program transponder ("smart") keys ranges between $125.00 to $275.00 (total, including the cost of the keys), depending on the region of the country.

"...Keys to newer vehicles that have black tops most likely contain unique transponders..."

Not all transponder keys are black. Chrysler and GM both use gray tops for their transponders, many Focus transponder keys are clear or brightly colored, many transponders are hidden in "all-in-one" fobs that come in many colors, and most important, many black topped keys do not have transponder technology at all.

"...Toyota minivan, owners have to replace the keys and the ignition computer. That can cost up to $2,000..."

The whole $2000 ignition thing has become something of an urban legend at this point. To be sure, if Toyota thinks they can get away with it, they WILL charge this to a customer. But ignition or ignition chip board replacement is NOT needed to create new keys. Any locksmith with the right programming equipment can make keys to any Toyota. Ignition & chip board replacement was only needed some years ago when Toyotas key technology was proprietary, and they kept the business for themselves. Locksmiths have since been able to create equipment that bypasses this. It takes very expensive and specialized code cutting and programming equipment to do so, and not all locksmiths have these items, but some locksmith somewhere in your area should be able to help, without touching your ignition. :)

"...having a spare transponder key in a safe place. That can make it cheaper and easier to program new keys at a locksmith..."

In "some" cases. When purchasing transponder keys, you are not paying for the keys, you are paying for the skills, and the equipment required, to decipher, create, cut, code and program the keys. Some shops will definitely charge less for programming services alone. This is a "do your homework" type of issue however. Call more than one shop, make sure the shop knows you have your own blanks, and you want "duplicating & programming" only. Get several quotes, get a name, and hold them to it when you arrive.

"...looking on Ebay..."

See above.

"...At the dealer, it cost $46..."

Locksmith prices for blanks of any kind are nearly always less expensive than dealers. Similar situation to the stuffed dog toy at PetSmart that costs $15, while the same stuffed dog toy at WalMart costs $3.99. It's a "specialty" store kind of thing - "Specialty" stores always charge more because they can. :)

"...can even learn to program blank smart keys by themselves which also saves money. Owners would need an original key and directions to do that..."

In "some" rare cases, mostly some Ford models. Many makes and models require proprietary equipment to program any duplicate keys into vehicles. Many vehicles require 2 ORIGINAL (not previously duplicate) keys to program a new key, and even those are split between those requiring proprietary equipment, and "do it yourself" programming.

Please give a yell if any clarification is needed, or if you have further questions. We have been in this business for 18 years, have a very successful and well reviewed company in San Diego, and are an excellent resource should you need us. "We're not your normal locksmith company™." :)

Thanks in advance for your time and attention!

Sincerely,

Kim Dryden

technorati tags: locksmith, transponder technology, locksmith business, urban legend, san diego, smart keys, transponder keys, toyota key technology, program new keys

read or link to the full post here...

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

ATL: How long should it take for a locksmith to open my car?

Ask The Locksmith Question:
How long should it take for a locksmith to open my car?

- The vast majority of cars can and should be opened, "damage free" (i.e. No tint damage or tearing, no weather stripping damage, no scratches, etc.), within 10 seconds to, at most, 2 minutes.* There is the occasional exception; any car can put up a fight... A simple to open car can turn sticky, and a difficult to open car can give it up in seconds. In most cases, any locksmith that struggles for longer than 5 minutes on any car other than say, a Lexus, or a BMW, is simply not doing the job you called him out for.

The exceptions to this rule are generally Lexus and BMW's. Both of these cars have exceptional protections against unauthorized entry, whether by locksmith or car thief.

Just as an FYI, to open a Lexus damage free takes an extraordinary combination of timing and skill. Lexus has a brilliant little timeout system. Once a locksmith gets his opening tool into the door, and gets a hold of the lock button, he/she has exactly 4/10ths of a second to flip the button and get the door handle open, concurrently. If he/she doesn't get it on the first try, the car sets a timeout, forcing the locksmith to wait approximately 10 minutes before trying again. Because of the minute amount of time to accomplish this trick, it is not uncommon for it to take multiple tries to get a Lexus open. Takes time, practice, skill, and patience.

BMW's on the other hand have a cool little "weight" trick (as do the newer Lexus', rendering the previous opening tactic moot). In order for a BMW to be opened, there needs to be "weight" equivalent to a human body in the drivers seat. There are specialized tools that can open BMW's, bypassing that issue, but they are not 100%, few locksmiths have them, and fewer still have mastered them.

Just so you know, no, there are NO cars made or known to mankind where damage during opening is a standard result. Believe it or not, we have heard that excuse for massive amounts of damage done to window tinting, weather stripping, etc. Please don't allow any "locksmith" to tell you that "these cars are real hard to open, and some damage is to be expected." Nonsense.

*Cars that have broken linkages, or previous damage within the door panel itself can add considerable time to getting the door open. In these cases, and these cases ONLY, the locksmith should move to the drivers side to open the car if a rear door opening is not possible (Please see the post titled: "Why do some locksmiths insist on opening a car ONLY from the passenger side, while others say it makes no difference?".)

We're not your normal locksmith company™... :)

technorati tags: locksmith, unauthorized entry, car thief, car unlock, opening tool, broken linkage, opening a car, locksmith company

read or link to the full post here...

Monday, February 20, 2006

ATL: "Drill & Install"???

Ask The Locksmith Question:
I am going to purchase a deadbolt lock from Home Depot and would like to have it installed. Your service rates show that would cost $45 + $35 per drill & install...
What does "per drill" mean?

Hi Barbara...

This is how you read it on our website: $45.00* Service Call + $35.00 per drill & install, or $20.00 for an install only.

In the context above, "per drill & install"... is specifically for the circumstances where there is not an existing hole in the door for the placement of a deadbolt, and the locksmith has to drill out, and create a hole and bolt hole, to install the deadbolt. This installation requires specifications, measuring, hole saws, installation, filing, sanding, and a sawdust pile on the floor (which we clean up ).

In the second example, "$20.00 for an install only" is specifically for the circumstance where there was a deadbolt there previously, and no new drilling or specification adjustment is required. This install is a "yank out the old, pop in the new" installation only.

Can you suggest the best burglar free lock to get?

As far as brand stability, security, integrity, and longevity, we always suggest Kwikset (AKA Titan) over Schlage. Schlage had a warranted reputation for many years as being the best, and many hardware stores will still try to insist on this, but from a locksmiths point of view, they simply no longer hold up, and have not for quite a few years. Kwikset uses stronger metal, better interior mechanisms, have more hardened steel, etc. We replace and repair considerably far more Schlage than Kwikset.

That being said, what you get for your deadbolt depends just as much on what you currently have your house keyed to, and whether you want to have one key for all locks, or have a different key for the deadbolt than the rest. If you currently have Schlage, and want to be on one key (have the existing key work the new deadbolt as well), you will need to buy a Schlage deadbolt. The same applies for an existing Kwikset setup, you will need to buy a Kwikset. You can tell which you have currently by the name stamped on any or all of the following:

1) the key itself

2) the inside (edge of door) strike plate

3) the lock itself

For convenience, buy the same brand you already have. Schlage cannot be keyed to match Kwikset, and the same applies in the reverse.

As far a "burglar free". This does not exist in any "real" sense of the word. Any lock outside of a high security industrial grade type lock, i.e. Medeco or Primus, etc., can be picked with the right skills, and any deadbolt can be kicked in under the right circumstances. 9 times out of 10, the type of deadbolt on a house makes no difference to any crook trying to get in. They enter through windows, casements, garages, etc. Very rarely will a crook take the time, or take the risk of being seen picking a lock, or kicking a lock in. In the home security field we look at it more as an overall picture. Is there any glass in your entry doors (easily broken to get access to any lock)? Are your doors all locked and deadbolted both? Is your garage kept closed, and is the passageway between the house and the garage also locked and dead bolted at all times? Does the house look lived in? Are there lights on when you aren't at home, radios making sound, timers controlling lights, etc. These external, "someone's there" criteria are far more important to the mindset of a criminal than what type of locks are on the doors.

For overall residential security, in Schlage, get a or grade 2 strength deadbolt. In Kwikset (or Titan), get any deadbolt named and rated "Maximum Security" (also grade 2, but better hardware overall).

I know it's long winded, but I hope this helps. :) Please feel free to give a yell with any additional questions, or if you need clarification, or if you'd like to schedule an install.

Cheers!

Kim

We're not your normal locksmith company™... :)

technorati tags: locksmith, deadbolt, burglar, kwikset, titan, schlage, rekey, high security lock, medeco, primus, home security, residential security, locksmith company

read or link to the full post here...